the Thinker

The three of them sound like an unusual combination, no? I know, I know…you guys probably do not recognize me any more. The Thinker must be sounding like some yester year’s forgotten celebrity (no, I am not pampering myself, just was trying to find a suitable comparison). This whole year so far has been one of retribution for me, one which I was not prepared for. But any how, that is not something I would pen down in this personal space of mine that seems to be covered with cobwebs now. Time to clean up people! I am a nomad (No need stating it out, Huh?), so recently I returned from an unusual expedition to mainly two very different cities – very different indeed, in tastes, temper, appearance and climate (this particular one deserves special mention, believe me global warming is really catching up). And of course, the trip will remain a memorable one due to a very different set of people who accompanied me on the trip.

The Durga Puja season in Kolkata is chased by a series of other pujas – this is a very common factoid and I know I am not stating a new discovery or something. But being a constant witness to the hoolah, lights and repetitive Puja festivities since the past 13 years, this year I decided to divert a bit. So I accompanied by my mother and some other relatives, went on a tour covering the following cities – Agra, Hardwar and Dehradun/Mussorie (this one’s not worth mentioning though).

We traveled to all these destinations via Indian railways, sleeper class. One word of caution – if affordable I would suggest an AC two or three tier reservation from Kolkata. Of course, if you consider yourself to be an apt replacement for an ingredient in the witch’s boiling cauldron, then you might find the hot, stifling and suffocating sleeper class compartment nothing less than a mere carrier to your destination (You might think likewise if you find money dearer than personal comfort, no offence meant though).

I will not waste time discussing the flaws and triumphs of Indian railways under the reign of Lalu Yadav in recent times. Let me straightaway start from the point our excursion began in Agra. The moment you land in the city you experience two things or one thing for certain. The thing that will inevitably make its impact on you is the torrid heat and humidity in Agra, that too in the month of October (I mentioned global warming above somewhere). To notice the second thing all you need is a bit of observation as you travel through the roads of this heritage city.

The Mughal rule ended in Agra thousands of years back, but it still bears its semblance in the way the city is laid out. Some of the old shops in the city are constructed with mandatory arches, elaborate pillars and floors inlaid in marble stone, a feature that dominated Mughal architecture and engineering as is evident in most of the monuments we visited. The language and speech that people here communicate through, though does not boast of the graceful eloquence of Moslem vocabulary, and still has an imprint of the ancient indulgent and partially hedonistic dynasty that ruled it. Most people use words like ‘Hum,’ ‘Aap,’ ‘Badiya’ and other such words in their daily speech. It might almost give you a feeling that you just finished watching Jodha Akbar.

But the best part comes when you travel through some of the ancient and still popular tourist spots of the city and hear their story over and over again. I am sure many of you must have visited Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri once (or more than once) in your lifetime. My narration of these familiar Mughal constructions might sound like a repetition. But I do hope my words describing these places might evoke some past memories that you people built if and when you visited them.

Fatehpur Sikri was the first spot that we planned to visit in Agra and therein we landed on our second day of stay in the city. As we entered through the colossal entrance of the magnificent monument Emperor Akbar constructed back in the Mughal era, the first thing that stung our senses was the pricking heat that made its impact through the blazing floor of red sand stones. We literally limped past the red stoned floor. Our guide informed us that these stones were specially ordered by the Emperor from Rajasthan (benefits of having a Rajput princess for a wife).

I am sure many have already visited the place therefore I will not bore you guys by spelling out facts that many of you must have read in history books or known during your travails. But I will surely indulge in describing a few details about the place that intrigued me and definitely raised my admiration for Mughal architecture and engineering. There is this place in Sikri where you shall find innumerable graves encarved upon the floor. These are meant to be sacred and I remember our guide actually scolded someone who accidentally stepped on one of them. These tombs are those of the disciples, followers and possibly descendants of the famous Muslim priest, Salim Chishti. The story goes that Akbar had three wives (yes, its true. There were only three of them, and not 15 or a 1000), but no children from any of the three (does that ring any bell about an ancient and most revered Indian Mythological lore about a Hindu King with three wives and 4 mighty and godly sons?).

Anyways, Akbar went to Salim Chishti and implored him to bless him to obtain an heir. The Saints’ blessings culminated into the birth of Jodha Bai’s son Jahangir, also know as Mohammad Salim. It was in the memory of this famous saint that Akbar ordered the construction of this site in Sikri where a homage is paid to the great saint and his people. Here in we also witnessed a most innovative technique of Muslim architecture. In those days when technology was not as advanced as it is today, the Mughals definitely had perceived the concept of air-conditioning an area through unique measures. See the picture above which shows a long rectangular tunnel leading to an open space? These tunnels were made in order to let cool air inside the hall and these acted as air conditioners during those days. Well, I don’t know whether I am able to make it explanatory or not but if you guys take a careful look at this picture, such tunnels were constructed throughout the hall where Akbar addressed his ‘Navratna’ sabha.

The picture of the locked door that seems to lead to a cellar of some kind is actually a secret tunnel leading to Delhi borders. Rumours are that the tunnel that was opened discreetly to let the infamous courtesan Anarkali escape the borders of the city, was one similar to this.

The tomb of Prophet Salim Chishti is inlaid in pure white marble stones. As soon as you step on the shining white surface of the tomb from the hot stinging red stone surface, a feeling of deep soothing calmness caresses your feet. This is the virtue of pure marble. Inside the tomb, especially the resting place where people offer chadars (embroidered synthetic sheets offered as a sign of respect to a Muslim burial) and flowers, a short dome adorned with shell stone decorations that change colours in accordance to the light entering the place, roof the dargah (burial place of the Muslim saint).

Here in it becomes necessary to mention that our insufferable trip manager started grumbling as we decided to offer a chadar and our prayers to the Saint. Actually the trip was planned like this – we visit Fatehpur Sikri first and then Mathura and Vrindavan. The plan obviously was a bad one for it was too crowded and we had requested him to arrange for a visit to Taj and Fatehpur on one day and keep the other two places on another day. The man as I mentioned was stupidly stubborn. So he started to shout saying that we will be late for the other two places. Anyways, in spite of all oppositions we managed to enter the tomb of Salim Chishti.

From there we took a look at outstanding Buland Darwaza, a supreme piece of aesthetic and artistic workmanship.

From there we started for Mathura and Vrindavan. The trip which had started with a promising spirit in the beginning started to deteriorate from this point. First, it took us a lot of time to leave Sikri’s premises due to a road jam. After an hours’ delay as we started on our journey to Vrindavan, we got stuck in another jam in the highway. We did not have any lunch, so all of us were obviously hungry. It was almost 8 in the evening when we reached Vrindavan. Our initial plan was that we will visit Vrindavan and then have tea and refreshments at a stall. And then on we shall visit Mathura.

However, thanks to our trip organiser as well as some of our co-travelers, everything got messed up. By the time, we reached Vrindavan, the temple was on the verge to close for the day. The main temple where the idols of Lord Krishna and Radha were kept was already closed for the day. When we came out of the temple premises and entered a stall to eat, half of our traveling party started to scream and shout that we shall be late for Mathura. Their confusion was so pathetic that they decided to leave the stall after ordering tea and refreshments. On the other hand, our trip manager starting screaming over us like some school teacher who tries to discipline his students to line up in a queue.

There a small suggestion here, please do not travel with people who don’t know much and speak more. It ruins everything! After a lot of irritating words being exchanged and with empty stomachs (some with empty heads as well), we started for Mathura. The Mathura temple visit was a good one though. The temple truly appeared majestic and we were also assisted by our primates during this visit. It almost appeared that they were holding some sort of an urgent conference. They had a whole group that trotted over the temple roof straight in a compact group.

The Radha Krishna temple visit of Mathura was an unforgettable experience. It was the first time I got an idea regarding an Indian medieval fortress. We entered through the dungeon where Lord Krishna’s parents, Vasudev and Devaki were incarcerated by his wicked uncle, Kamsa. There is a staircase which leads to a ‘chabutara’ (a place where pigeons are fed).

There are pockets of stalls inside the temple premises that sell idols of Lord Krishna, and other objects used for puja. One of my cousins whose mission since the journey commenced was to acquire a flute from Mathura, rejoiced at the sight as most of the shops had them in abundance.

Sadly, no pictures could be taken of this sight as the entrance of the temple, security personnel asked us to keep our belongings elsewhere – especially cameras, mobiles and stuff.

The main Radha Krishna temple of Mathura was simply a heavenly experience. There is flight of stairs that when you climb up almost gives a feeling that you are ascending up to some divine abode. Of course, I am being slightly emotional here being a devotee of Lord Krishna. I guess Anand might be able to guess what I am talking about.

The idols here are one of the most majestic ones I have ever seen. Again, I regret not having the opportunity to click even one picture. Not only Lord Krishna and Radha, it had several idols – those of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Sita, Lord Hanumana, Lord Shiva and Devi Durga on her lion. The temple ceiling was something to watch out. There had paintings of the Raslila (The dance of Lord Krishna with his female devotees, the gopis) and all the events that trace back to the eventful childhood of Supreme Godhead, Lord Krishna. It was a full flurry of the resplendent colours and aestheticism.

The day after that we went mainly to three places namely Dayal Bagh, Agra Fort and Taj Mahal. Dayal Bagh was founded by Radhasoami Satsang Sabha. The place is more like a homage point for disciples of Shri Radhaswamiji. But the main attraction here lies in the walls that built the place. Yes, I know many know already what I am referring to. It almost appears that an artist decided to pick up a hammer and an engraver to chisel out his poetry on the stones. Sadly, here again our cameras and mobiles were kept under surveillance at the security counter. So, no pictures again.

While leaving the Dayal Bagh premises something sad occurred. We were hounded by travel guides, and accidentally as one of them nudged their way in, my mother tripped and fell on her face on the road. Her knees were badly bruised. After putting some cold water on her wounds and some pain relieving medicines, we started for Agra Fort.

To be continued….

WOW !
Welcome back ....

So finally really happy to see you on ur site !

The post as usual was full of LIFE!.

I love travelling but havent been to these places except been in my own eyes .. by reading :)

So this post of urs was jst great it took me with ur trip ..
Yes all ur points taken .. abt travelling with the right crowd :D

Agra seems really enchanting with the way you describe every fort and style ..

I am a Krishna crazy and the temple u have described really seems so alluring that i wish i culd visit soon and ya grab a flute too ....

Really sorry for ur mom hope she did recoup and s doing great now ...
waiting to hear from u

btw ur title itself is just 'bindaas' ! ekdam super :)
take care  

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Welcome back
and thank you for the detailed post :)



GBU
Arti  

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hi meenu,

glad to have your comments back on my page. how are you doing? I am glad if my description of Agra formed visuals in your head...as it is you are a very imaginative person, very creative so i am sure...you will comprehend the picture even if someone else had written the post. Great to have you back dear! and yes, there is more to the Agra story..so keep an eye.

Arti,

welcome back..you need not thank me for that...waiting for an update on your Straight From Your Heart Blog.  

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hey fried how ru?? you are still arround ???? i thought you too disappeared from this world just like me :D

any ways good to see you back.......

maja karo ane jalsa karo :)

Take Care
Vikas{V}  

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Hi,

So welcome back!

And what’s new knocking at ur doorsteps?

Ki, traveling too much?

Thanks for finding me again.

How abt your work (journalism right?)

Hope, this time you wont take lonnggg rest :)

Take care,
Roy  

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Vikas,

Good to see u again...well, u thought i was out of the world altogether? :)..not so fortunate dear..still living..yes, but tough times on...anyways, hu maja ma chu, taara shu khabar che? thanks for ur wishes and u too tk care..:)

Roy,

So ur the same Roy after all...great to see ur comment after such a long time musician...travelling yes, and work, looking for it...how about you? what is the great composer working on this time? :)  

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Amrita,

This is about your previous post (wonder how I forgot to comment!) Nonetheless... there are coincidences in Life, one of which is the fact that the latest Jim Carrey starrer 'Yes Man' pretty much encapsulates what you say - but from the perspective of 'individuals' (which is pretty much what is possible I reckon). As my father keeps belabouring to me during impossible times, when I childishly ask, "Why are people like this?', 'You are the only person you can change, son, not others.' In a way if I think I need a change, and someone points it out to be, I guess I should say 'yes' to that. It is something I am still learning and will probably take a lifetime to master!

Just one more thing: people who CAN take (I mean: those who have the HEART to take NO for an anwer) 'no' and still say 'yes' to what life offer are a rare but precious breed. And I believe these are people who will (and ought to) grow up to say 'yes' at least when they can and when that 'yes' provides hope, optimism, strength and comfort for the person(s) at the hearing end of a conversation.

Sorry for that partly didactic sounding - wholly convoluted - comment meant for another post under this post.

Hope life is treating you well:-)  

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hey dear waiting for u...its long time haven't seen you...

where ru??? no new , no msgs???


waiting for u...
reply...

take care
vikas{V}  

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Amrita,

Been a long time indeed: anyway you may want to take a look at this.

http://prasans.blogspot.com/2009/03/some-memorable-blog-reads.html  

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